Alcohol = general term for ethanol solvent, refreshing, disinfectant.
An active substance which occurs naturally in the skin, stimulates wound healing, cell regeneration, soothes, softens and smoothes the skin.
A plant extract with calming, moisturising, protective and nourishing characteristics.
A mild astringent which regenerates the skin’s acid mantle.
Basil = Oleum Ocimum basilicum
An essential oil, anticonvulsant, calming, antiseptic
Beta Carotene = Provitamin A
A fat-soluble vitamin with antioxidant properties, works against cell-damaging free radicals, protects unsaturated fatty acids from oxidation, and is one of the skin-protective vitamins
Biotin = Vitamin H
A water-soluble vitamin which aids normal skin and hair functions. It is used as a preventative measure against hair loss and to stimulate hair growth.
Stinging nettle extract = Urticae e Fol
Use for preventing dandruff, itchiness, inflammatory skin reactions and hair loss.
A moisture retainer used in skincare products, a solvent for plant extracts.
A very compatible gel material.
A wax from a small Mexican shrub, Euphorbia cerifera, which creates the consistency of lipsticks.
Caprylic/Capric Stearic Triglycerides
Triglyceride from fatty acids with chain lengths of C8 (8 carbons) to C18 (18 carbons); a neutral lipoid in creams.
A wax from the leaves of the Brazilian palm Copernica cerifera, which adds texture to lipsticks.
Ceramides, together with phospholipids, are an important component of the intercellular substance between the cells of the epidermis and horny layer respectively. They are jointly responsible for the maintenance of skin functions (regulation of transdermal water balance, protection from infections, ensuring dermal elasticity). DR. BAUMANN only uses ceramides derived from plants!
A fatty alcohol-based emulsifier.
Cethyl Dimethicon Copolyol
A powerful, siliceous emulsifier used in W/O products, especially for plant oils.
Natural chlorophyll which prolongs shelf life when the central magnesium atom is replaced with copper. It has a light deodorising effect.
A wax ester derived from plant resources which has an intensive protective effect on the skin. Its composition is similar to spermaceti, which is extracted from whale oil and on grounds of whale protection may longer be used today.
D-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate is natural vitamin E in its stored form as acetate. It protects cell membranes from oxidation and free radicals. As an active ingredient in cosmetics only the stable vitamin E acetate is used. It stores itself in the various skin layers, and in doing so can significantly enhance penetration through exposure to UV B rays. The antioxidant D alpha Tocopherol is continuously freed by the enzymes from stored vitamin E acetate, which is also considerably enhanced by UV B exposure. Depending on concentration and frequency of application, vitamin E alone can have a sun protection factor of 2–4. The number of cells damaged by UV (sunburnt cells) can be significantly reduced. Furthermore, it effects an improvement on the surface of the skin, boosts moisture retention in the horny layer, represses inflammation, accelerates epithelization of wounds and increases enzyme activity in the skin. Together with vitamin C it is well suited to preventing the build-up of nitrosamines. Natural vitamin E (D-alpha-Tocopherol) of plant origin is much more effective than synthetic vitamin E (D,L-alpha-Tocopherol)!
D,L-alpha-Tocopherol Acetate is synthetic vitamin E. It has the same effect as natural vitamin E (D-alpha-Tocopherol) but is a much weaker form of vitamin E.
A mixture of natural Tocopherols in the alpha, beta, gamma and delta form, as they occur in all natural oils. It has antioxidant properties.
A triose sugar found naturally in the human body, which reacts with keratin in the horny layer to form a brown pigment which preserves and deepens a natural tan.
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
W/O emulsifier derived from plant fats.
Iron Oxides CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Mineral iron oxides in the primary colours of yellow, red and black; for colour pigments; very compatible.
Ethanol = Ethyl alcohol
Known as “alcohol” in the vernacular; a solvent, refreshing and disinfecting.
Ethyl Butylacetylamino Propionate
An insect repellent which works wonderfully against mosquitoes, horse flies, ants, spiders and lice. Best skin compatibility.
Extr. Humuli Lupuli e Flor = Hop extract
A plant-derived active ingredient which has skin tightening, invigorating and toning properties, and which boosts blood circulation. Contains phytoestrogens.
Extr. Chamomillae e Flor = Chamomile extract
From Matricaria (Mayweed). It soothes skin, aids wound healing, aids granulation and represses inflammation. It is valued in alternative and traditional medicine.
Extr. Salvia officinalis = Sage extract
An astringent which aids blood circulation.
Extr. Semen hippocastani = Horse chestnut extract
Vasoconstrictive, inhibits oedema, toning.
Extr. Thymus vulgaris = Thyme extract
A plant-based active ingredient which is effective against hair loss, dandruff and oily hair. Not to be confused with the ‘thymus’ of animal origin (thymus gland extract)!
Farnesol = Dodecatrienol
An essential oil which inhibits the growth of bacteria present in perspiration.
Adds lubrication and consistency to tenside.
Adds consistency to O/W formulations, and is derived from natural oils through the partial decomposition of ester.
Gives a pearlescent appearance to tenside formulations.
Glycolic acid = Hydroxyacetic acid
This is a fruit acid which reduces the thickening of the skin and stops surface flakiness.
Granule of Nylon
A granular exfoliant from nylon which is used for the exfoliation of dead skin cells; it is more gentle on the skin than exfoliants made from ground peach pips.
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Conditioners with a base of guar flour reduce flakiness of the scalp and strengthen the hair.
A natural moisture dispenser with skin-smoothing properties, which also occurs naturally in the connective tissue of human skin. It was previously derived from cocks’ combs (cruel mass animal farming!) but a better quality is produced bio-technically today.
A natural wax which regulates the consistency in W/O systems.
Hydrogenated Caster Oil
Hydrogenated ricinus/caster oil adds consistency to W/O creams and lipsticks.
Isopropyl Alcohol = Iso Propanol
Has a disinfectant characteristic like ethanol, but in contract to ethanol it dissolves natural fats.
A fluid wax ester derived from plant resources, which has intensive protective properties for the skin and has similar characteristics to spermaceti, which was attained from whales and is no longer used on grounds of whale protection.
A high-purity clay which cleanses the skin.
Occurs in the body and skin as a product of metabolic processes. In high concentrations and at a low pH value of 2–3 it has a peeling effect on the horny layer. At the skin’s physiological pH value of approximately 5.5 it supports moisture retention and preserves the skin’s acid mantle.
A thickener in tenside formulations, it is attained from short chain fatty acids.
Lecithin = Phospholipids
A natural emulsifier of plant origins, it supports the effect of the skin’s natural protective lipid mantle. It is smoothing and moisture-retaining.
Linoleamide DEA (DEA = Diethanolamide)
A thickener in tenside formulations which is derived from soy bean oil.
Liposomes are small hollow spherules, the walls of which are comprised of the same phospholipids as the walls of skin cells and the lamellar membranes of the intercellular substance. This is the reason for their exceptional compatibility. Multilamellar liposomes are able to boost the skin’s moisture content by nearly 100% within only 7 days. Liposomes also transport other active ingredients into the skin. In the case of skin-protective vitamins this is very beneficial, but in the case of perfume and chemical preservatives extremely negative, as these are amongst the most common allergy triggers! Dr. Baumann SkinIdent only uses multilamellar liposomes without perfumes or chemical preservatives. DR. BAUMANN uses only liposomes and phospholipids of plant origin.
Methyl Glucose Sesquisterearate
An O/W emulsifier derived from glucose and fat. Very skin-friendly, moisture dispensing.
A vitamin B3 derivative, which boosts blood circulation and stimulates the metabolism.
A sugar-like growth substance found in the plant and animal kingdoms, classified as a member of the vitamin B complex. A deficiency in myo-inositol has been observed to cause hair loss.
Like liposomes, these are small hollow spherules whose walls are built from a simple layer of phospholipids, the lipophilic ends of which point towards the inside of the nanosomes. They allow only fat-soluble substances into the skin. DR. BAUMANN only uses nanosomes and phospholipids respectively which are of plant origins.
A spreadable and non-oily wax ester derived from palm kernel oil.
A chemical light protection filter, UV-stable and very compatible.
Oleum Aniba roseaodora = Rosewood oil
Inhibits inflammation and stimulates the immune system.
Oleum Butyrospermi Parkii = Shea Butter
A fat from the seed of the Butyrospermum Parkii plant. It is particularly suitable for the care of dry and sun-damaged skin. The skin becomes softer and blood and oxygen supply is optimised. Protects against drying UV-rays.
Oleum Canaga odorata = Ylang Ylang
An essential oil, anticonvulsant, relaxing, balancing, eroticising.
Oleum Caryo Phylli = Clove oil
An essential oil which drives away all types of insects.
Oleum Chamaemelum ormensis = oil from the Moroccan chamomile
Inhibits inflammation, heals wounds, soothes.
Oleum Commiphora myrrha = Myrrh oil
An essential oil, inhibits inflammation, aids healing.
Oleum Citrus aurantum = Neroli oil
An essential oil from orange flowers which relaxes and lifts the mood.
Oleum Cymbopogan flexuosus = Lemon grass
An essential oil which is refreshing and aids concentration.
Oleum Eykalypti = Eucalyptus oil
Relaxes cramps, heals wounds and stimulates.
Oleum Lavendula angustifolia = Lavender oil
An essential oil with skin-smoothing properties which works against skin impurities.
Oleum Leptospermum scoparium = Manuka oil
An essential oil related to tea tree oil with a distinctive antiseptic effect.
Oleum Lippia citriodora = Verbena oil
An essential oil which invigorates and aids concentration
Oleum Macadamiae = Macadamia nut oil
For care of the skin, hair and scalp. It protects the skin and hair from sun damage and prevents it the hair and scalp from drying out. Has a high concentration of palmitoleic acid.
Oleum Melaleuca alternifolia = Tea tree oil
An essential oil with a prominent antiseptic effect.
Oleum Mentha arvensis = Mint oil
An essential oil, refreshing, invigorating.
Oleum Oenothera biennis = Evening primrose oil
One of the most valuable oils for skincare. Its high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids, linoleic acid and gamma linoleic acid, works against dry, rough and flaky skin. It delivers moisture and has a calming effect on the skin. It also boosts blood circulation and works against the development of pimples. Taking it orally is also recommended. In many people the metabolism of linoleic acid into gamma linoleic acid is defective, which in extreme cases can lead to neurodermitis. It is also highly valued in naturopathy.
Oleum Pelargonium graveolens = Geranium
A essential oil which relaxes, balances and stimulates.
Oleum Pinus Pinaster = Maritime Pine oil
An essential oil from the pine cones, relaxing and anticonvulsant.
Oleum Piper nigrum = Black pepper
An essential oil, eroticising, lightly stimulating.
Oleum Ricini = Castor oil
Oil from the seeds of the Castor plant, very compatible, commonly used in lipstick formulations.
Oleum Rosa = Rose oil
An essential oil, harmonising, an aphrodisiac.
Oleum Santalum album = Sandalwood oil
An essential oil, harmonising, nourishing, an aphrodisiac.
Oleum Sesami indicae = Sesame oil
Cold-pressed oil from the seeds of the sesame plant with a high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids. Well suited to Ayurvedic massage.
Oleum Simmondsiae californicae = Jojoba oil
A natural liquid wax with protective and nourishing properties, which feels pleasant and velvety on the skin.
Panthenol = D Panthenol = Provitamin B5
Improves and increases the skin’s moisture retentive capacity, inhibits inflammation, reduces or eliminates itchiness. Stimulates epithelization: small wounds (shaving cuts), grazes, and dries out blisters. When added to hair care products it does form a deposit on the hair and scalp but penetrates and accumulates. As panthenol is an important component of healthy hair, scientific studies have shown D Panthenol to be “food for the hair”. It gives the hair long-lasting moisture, detangles the hair, reduces split ends, improves the condition of damaged hair, thickens the hair and provides shine. It also reduces brittleness in fingernails.
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor oil
A solubiliser based on castor oil, for essential oils in water.
Exfoliating particles made of polyethylene for the exfoliation of dead skin cells; it is gentler on the skin than exfoliators made from ground peach pips.
Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate
An emulsifier for W/O systems derived from glycerine, sugar and fatty acids.
An emulsifier for W/O systems, solubiliser, derived from sorbitol.
A conditioner with a base of cellulose; reduces flakiness of the scalp.
Siliceous Earth = Kieselgur
An organic mineral. Used topically it cleanses the skin pore-deep and soothes, heals and reduces inflammation. Taken orally it is important for nails, skin, hair, bones and connective tissue.
A vital trace element (for further explanation see “Dietary Supplements”)
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate = vitamin C esterified with phosphoric acid
A water-soluble vitamin with antioxidant properties. It acts against cell damaging free radicals.
Supports the stability of W/O systems, adds texture to tenside formulations.
Has a moisture preserving effect on the skin; with the average physiological pH value of the skin at 5.5 it forms the skin’s acid mantle.
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
A mild basic surfactant.
A water-soluble glucoside with moisture-dispensing properties. It has exceptional compatibility with the skin and mucous membranes.
Squalene = a nourishing oil
Derived from the unsaponifiable part of olive oil.
Stearate = Stearic acid
Adipoids found in sebum and subcutaneous fat, provides texture.
Mica containing magnesium, a natural mineral, a base for powder, good adhesive properties.
Titandioxide CI 77891 = white colour pigment
A natural mineral which protects the skin and inhibits inflammation, adds colour to makeup and powder, in micro-fine ground powder form it reflects and absorbs UV-A and UV-B rays.
Inhibits the growth of the bacteria which supersede perspiration, very compatible, contained in many fruits.
An active substance which occurs naturally in the body which assists the permeation of other active substances in lotions. Keratolytic properties, increases the skin’s moisture content and inhibits inflammation.
Retinyl Palmitate = Vitamin A palmitate
An ideal active substance for older skins as it helps skin prematurely aged by UV radiation to regenerate and thickens the epidermis. Studies have shown an increase in collagen in the skin, a slight reduction in wrinkles and an improvement in the skin’s elasticity.
Tocopheryl-Nicotinate = Vitamin E nicotante
Slightly enhances blood circulation and metabolic processes.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate = vitamin C esterified with phosphoric acid
A water-soluble vitamin with antioxidant properties. It acts against cell damaging free radicals, protects unsaturated fatty acids from oxidation and is crucial for the development of collagen and connective tissue, as well as the functioning of the immune system. Together with vitamin E it is very well suited to prevent the build-up of nitroamines (also see “dietary supplements”).
Stearate = Stearin = Stearic acid
Provides consistency in W/O formulations and is a component of sebum.
A fatty alcohol, provides the consistency in W/O systems.
A mild, non-ionizing tenside derived from cane sugar and fat which improves the compatibility of other tensides.
A W/O emulsifier derived from cane sugar and fat. Very skin-friendly, dispenses moisture.
Used to neutralise polyacrylate gel (carbomer), reacts alkaline in water (see anti-blackhead lotion pH 9.8)
Polysaccharide, natural gel creator, bio-technically created.
A natural mineral with UV-absorbing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Provides texture, enhances the ability of powders to be smoothed on and to adhere, mildly antiseptic.